(Above: The main road out of Bourg d'Oisans)
Col de la
Croix de Fer/Col du Galibier
July
15, 1998
Distance: 105 miles
Elevation: 12,810 feet
Difficulty: 9/10
Scenery: 9/10;
Route: Bourg d'Oisans-Col du Glandon-Col de la Croix de Fer-
St. Jean-du-Maurienne-Col du Telegraphe-Col du Galibier-
Col du Lautaret-la Grave-Bourg d'Oisans
Spurred on by encouraging results from my rides up Alpe d’Huez and les Deux Alpes, I decided to take on a more ambitious circuit, riding over 4 cols in a big clockwise route that’s over 100 miles long and takes in over 12,000 feet in cumulative elevation. Also influencing my decision to attempt this ride was the fact that, 2 weeks later, the Tour de France would be going over most of these same roads, in a pivotal 15th stage that would start from Grenoble and would finish up at ski town of les Deux Alpes. That stage would feature Col du Glandon and Col de la Croix de Fer (a hors categorie, or "out of category", climb), Col du Télégraphe (2nd category), Col du Galibier (another hors categorie), and les Deux Alpes (1st category). All but the last of these climbs were on my agenda for the ride. My excitement remained tempered by the fact that, 2 strenuous rides in 2 days notwithstanding, I still did not possess a sufficient mileage base to comfortably finish a ride of this length and difficulty. The course is configured such that, without a car, and starting from Bourg d’Oisans, the loop is an all-or-nothing proposition. There are no shortcuts back to the start, no bail-out options; once started, the circuit would have to be completed one way or another. But ready or not, as a keen follower of professional cycling, I wanted to ride a Tour "stage" and see how I measured up. I’m not exactly a novice at this sort of thing, but living in London is a lot different from living in Northern California, sustained hillclimbs being such scarce commodity in England.
(Above: The main road
out of Bourg d'Oisans)
I finished my coffee and croissant at the hotel and at 8:30 on a clear, Wednesday morning was riding out of Bourg d’Oisans. The sun was well on its way up its daily outpost by the time I hit the road, but the crisp, Alpine morning air still had a bite to it, and I felt a slight chill. But I was encouraged by the promise of good, warm weather (yesterday was yucky weatherwise; the whole area was shrouded in clouds all day). Already, the golden orange glow of the morning sun was reflecting brilliantly off the high peaks that surround the Oisans valley.
The mostly flat-to-downhill stretch to Rochetaillée is on the main artery that connects Bourg d’Oisans and the other outlying resort towns to the bigger cities of Grenoble and Vizille to the west. Still, traffic this time of the day in mid July didn’t seem that bad and did not present too much of a hassle—perhaps because lycra-clad beings hunched over their metal machines is not that rare of a sight in this area and motorists are always on the lookout for them.
(Above: After the
right turn from Rochetaillée)
Soon the right-turn sign for Allemond and Col de la Croix de Fer appeared, and I followed this pleasant road past sleepy settlements, an inviting campsite, and, following a short uphill, a dam. Thereafter the road proceeded to climb with a little more determination and signs of civilization slowly disappeared, giving way to an absolutely serene stretch of beautiful road, with lush vegetation; in places the influence of a rushing stream was very evident.
The road dipped briefly, as if by decoy, passed a narrow, wooden bridge, and then resumed its upward course with a lot more vigour. I saw another "Allez Flip and Johann!" marking on the road, as in l’Alpe d’Huez. "Flip" and "Johann" seemed to have been all over this part of the French Alps, perhaps having even done La Marmotte, a ride held just two weeks before. Road markings like this are usually a signal to shift down for a steep stretch just ahead, and this one was no exception—the road got steeper immediately past the markings. The road kept steadily rising out of the gorge, and the riding became a lot more strenuous, the grade reaching up to 9% in spots.
(Below: Near Articol,
above Allemond)
The climbing continued relentlessly until the arrival of le Rivier d’Allemont, a small but pretty village perched high up the mountain at 4,000 feet. Very shortly after leaving the village, the road abruptly dived, roller-coaster like, deeply into a canyon, only to quickly emerge just as steeply from the other side of it.
(Above: At Defile de
Maupas, a steep plunge followed by a long 10% climb)
The next 2-3 miles presented some of the steepest roads of the entire ride, some exceeding 10%, and rarely dipping below 8%. The place is one of rugged beauty. It was so beautiful, beautifully uphill that it hurt. A series of switchbacks up the eastern side of the Allevar Massif followed, with the road emerging from the switchbacks to traverse the western edge of the Grand’Maison Lake. Here the landscape was somewhat bleak. But just beyond the lake, on the stretch leading up to Col du Glandon, the scenery changed from rugged to picturesque.
(Above and Below:
Approaching Grand'Maison Lake)
